Matthew Jukes for Vineyard Magazine "I can declare it England’s finest new Demi-Sec creation!"
Just a few days before his death on 6 August 2026, Matthew wrote this column for Vineyard, which we are publishing in his honour and as a tribute to his talent, warmth and generosity. I love old phrases and use them often. But I realise I sometimes have no idea of their origins. While preparing this month’s column, I described this trio of wines to my wife as those that push the envelope. But what does this actually mean?
The word ‘envelope’ originally referred to the performance limits of aircraft. Regular pilots were instructed to keep to safe speeds and altitudes, but test pilots were encouraged to break new ground, pushing these envelopes.
Lots of English and Welsh wineries stay safely inside the envelope, as they should. But some risk danger and push hard to see what might happen. I expect we don’t hear about the failures!
But when pushing hard results in wines like this month’s collection, these brave souls are worth celebrating. So, let’s raise a glass to those who have pushed the envelope so deliciously this month. I am so pleased that they have driven their wines past what might be commonly accepted to break new ground.
2020 The Weyborne, Wayward No.1, Limited Release Demi-Sec, West Sussex
I have no idea when this wine will be released, and I have only recently seen a tech sheet, but in one fell swoop, I am confident that I can declare it England’s finest new Demi-Sec creation!
And I for one would not drink it with pudding, preferring to serve it as the ultimate aperitif, with its louche flavours and ultra-alluring palate. Thank goodness the exuberance is kept in place by knicker-snapping acidity.
Hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed, stainless steel-fermented and with nine months’ élévage on the lees in tank, it then spent five years of ageing post-secondary fermentation in bottle. The blend is a bracing 86% Chardonnay and 14% Pinot Noir, and it is rewarded for its efforts with 33g/L of residual sugar following its hearty dosage.
The touch of genius is that the residual sugar heartbeat within the glass comes across the palate as pure decadence instead of actual sweetness. It is utterly delectable, and I am wishing I had a glass beside me as I write this piece. Do not miss out, because it offers a completely different take on this rare style of wine to the acknowledged greats from say Nyetimber, Exton Park and Ambriel.
Comments